Riding Giants

Riding Giants is an exhilarating documentary film that delves into the fascinating world of big wave surfing. Directed by Stacy Peralta, a renowned skateboard guru turned documentarian, the film is an ode to the thrill-seeking adventurers who have turned this extreme sport into an art form. The film opens in the 1820s with the story of a Native American tribe surfing the giant waves at Makaha on the West Coast of Hawaii. These indigenous surfers were well-seasoned and respected wave riders, and the film sets the stage for the history of big wave surfing that unfolds over the next two hours. The narrative then shifts to the early surfers of the 20th century, including a group of friends who formed a surf club in Santa Cruz, California. These pioneers of big wave surfing, including a young Sam Reid, are shown to be drawn to the largest and most treacherous waves on the coast. As they progressed in their skills and courage, they began to ride the waves bigger and more frequently, establishing a new generation of surfers who would push the limits of what was possible on the water. The film's focus then shifts to the world of competitive surfing, which in the 1950s and '60s is dominated by big wave riders vying for the top prize in surfing contests such as the Makaha International Surfing Contest. The contest, held at the fabled break of Makaha on the south shore of Oahu, attracted the world's top surfers who rode their boards on waves that grew increasingly gigantic. These pioneering big wave surfers, including legendary surfers like Midget Farrelly and Peter Drouyn, helped to establish the sport's popularity and further challenge the limits of what riders could achieve. Among one of the pivotal characters in the film is Greg Long and his friend, Laird Hamilton, a pair who began to ride the massive waves at Tahiti's famed Teahupo'o. Known as one of the most deadly wave breaks in the world, they faced numerous challenges during their quest to tackle this massive wave, and Riding Giants masterfully captures their journey as they rode one of the world's most treacherous big waves on multiple occasions. The documentary delves deeper into the science and psychology behind the art of big wave surfing. Through interviews with various experts and surfers, as well as stunning archival footage of some of the most epic waves ever surfed, the film highlights the complex relationship that exists between riders and the waves they ride. It also touches upon the importance of physical and mental endurance, emphasizing the need for absolute focus and a deep understanding of the waves if one is to stay alive. Riding Giants captures the excitement, drama, and camaraderie of the world of big wave surfing through an engaging narrative and stunning visuals. Using first-hand accounts from legendary surfers, expert commentators and footage shot in the most breathtaking locations on Earth, Riding Giants is an exhilarating journey for anyone who has ever felt an affinity with the ocean and its powerful waves. Featuring cameos from some of the world's most renowned surfers and historians, Riding Giants provides a historical perspective on big wave surfing that offers a glimpse into the world of those who push the limits of human potential. Peralta's documentary provides a captivating exploration of the sport that is both thrilling and awe-inspiring, taking viewers on a memorable journey into the hearts of a unique culture. From the pioneering days of early surfers in Santa Cruz and Oahu to the epic waves at Teahupo'o, Riding Giants is a tribute to the courageous men and women who have made big wave surfing into an enduring legend. It is a testament to their unwavering commitment to pursuing the impossible and for creating an enduring cultural legacy that continues to captivate people's imagination.